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About Eastern Arc

Foundation of the Research Station
The Biological-Agricultural Institute of Amani [Das Biologisch-Landwirtschaftliche Institut Amani] was formally erected on the 4th of July in 1902 in the East Usambara Mountains. The site of the station was selected on account of its favorable climate and, moreover, the Government Health Centre wit a small botanical garden already functioned there; It had started nine years earlier. Later Amani was honored as the best research station during the German reign in eastern Africa, and it was equated with the well-known Buitenzorg [nowadays Bogor] in Java, Dutch East Indies.

Physical Setting and Biological Diversity
The East Usambara Mountains rise abruptly c. 40 km from the coast of the Indian Ocean and are clearly seen from the surrounding plains. The highest peak, Nilo, reaches 1,506 m. The German East-Africa Society donated over 300 hectares of lush submontane rain forest for the station and experimental fields. The area lies between 400 - 1,100 m.a.s.l., where the annual rainfall may exceed 2,000 mm. The average temperature is ca. 20oC and the annual fluctuation of temperatures is quite insignificant. Near the equator daily temperatures usually vary more than annual ones.



The Usambaras stand out as an exceptionally diversified ecosystem in mainland Africa and are ranked as one of the so-called biodiversity hotspots and centers of plant diversity of the world. Their biological significance has been compared to the Galapagos Islands. The mountains are know world-wide for the diversity for their flora and fauna, and for the remarkably high degree of endemic plants and animals found in the forests [i.e. species that occur only here and nowhere else in the world]. For instance, 219 birds and 1,921 indigenous vascular plant species have been reported from the East Usambaras alone. Among these there are as many as 64 endemic or near-endemic plant species [near-endemics occur also in a few adjacent Eastern Arc mountains that have a similar environment and geological history]. Perhaps the most famous of all the Usambaran species are the African Violets [Saintpaulia spp.], one species of which [S. ionantha] Baron von Saint-Paul-Illaire, then German commissioner to Tanga, brought to Europe for the first time in the year 1891. Since then this small, lovely herbaceous plant has continued its victorious world conquest on windowsills.

Agricultural History: Prehistoric Settlers and Cash Crop Estates
People have lived in the Usambara mountains for hundreds of years. The earliest findings of Iron Age settlements have been dated to 3rd AD. Local dwellers belonging to the tribe Sambaa [which still forms the majority of the local population] were very skilled cultivators. For instance, they constructed irrigation systems and fertilized their fields with cow manure. Banana and maize were the most important staples, just as they are today.

In 1880 luxuriant, dense forests still covered most part of the Usambara Mountains, but the Germans first and later others started logging operations, clearing the forests for plantations. These activities heavily reduced the original forests. The first plantations were cleared in 1886. The soil in the area was initially regarded as very fertile and suitable for coffee. However, coffee plantations declined soon because of the impoverishment of the soils, and the rise of plant diseases. To replace coffee, the Germans then established sisal, hemp, rubber, cinchona, cardamom and tea plantations. In the last decades, the large tea plantations together with the favorable climate, have brought about immigration from other parts of Tanzania. This, in turn, has increased the pressure on the forests. The population growth in the area is rapid: ca. 2.6% per year.

German Interests and Scientific Activities of the Station in Amani
The wealth of the tropical forests stirred up great interest in Germany at the turn of the century. Merchants in Hamburg and Bremen imported various plant products to Germany and many expeditions were sent out for exploration of tropical regions through the financial aid of large organizations. The German government also declared many regions in Africa and the Pacific Islands to be under the protection of the German Empire. Experimental stations were founded in new colonies for the German economic interests. Colonies cleared land for large plantations, and they badly needed new cultivation techniques.

The Botanical Garden of Berlin, and the affiliated Botanical Research Centre for the German Colonies, received many thousands of specimens and seed parcels every year, and sent back seeds, seedlings and reports of garden experiments. Moreover, the Botanical Research Centre arranged courses on botany and gardening for officials and gardeners who traveled to the colonies. Many of them collected considerable numbers of plant specimens for the Botanical Museum of Berlin. Unfortunately, a great part of these collections were destroyed in 1943 during the bombing of Berlin, although some were saved as duplicates that had been distributed to other scientific institutions in Europe.

In the Amani station, research was concentrated especially on field trials of the rubber tree [Hevea brasiliensis] and cotton, both of which were important for the German trade. In addition, suitable Agave species and varieties were investigated for huge plantations established by German farmers. Edible plants, e.g. millet [Sorghum], various melons, sweet potatoes, bananas and peanuts were bred for native farmers. Also soil analyses, plant disease and fertilizer studies were performed at the station. Of the 300 ha plot which was donated to the station, some 100 ha was under cultivation occurring at different altitudes. Already in 1907 there were ca. 650 species in cultivation trials.

The experimental station had botanical, zoological, and chemical laboratories, and the original staff comprised tree botanists, two chemists, four gardeners, one medical doctor, secretaries, technicians, and up to 350 Indian and African carpenters and laborers. The herbarium and zoological collections increased considerably and the library was excellent, harboring almost 4,000 volumes. Research findings were published in German scientific journals and professional publications of which "Der Pflanzer" was for some years printed in Amani. Many distinguished botanists, such as the Director of the Botanical Garden of Berlin, Dr. A. Angler, visited the station. Engler published many accounts based on his travels. In addition, C. Holst, G. Volkens, and A. Peter collected in the Usambara Mountains, a fact that can today be seen in the scientific names of many of the plants found in the area, e.g. Englerodendron usambarense, Myrianthus holstii, Rauvolfia volkensii, and Cordia peteri. Among these travelers, A. Peter, professor at the University of Göttingen, was the most prominent. He collected altogether 47,000 specimens during four expeditions for his "Flora von Deutsch-Ost-Afrika" which, however, was never finished.

Provisions for German Troops
During the first months of World War I, Amani played a crucial role in supplying food and other products for German armed forces in the German East Africa. During 18 months it delivered various plant products, e.g. much needed quinine, 10,000 pounds of chocolate and cocoa, 2,500 packages of tooth paste, 10,000 pieces of soap, cork, waxes, oils, medicines, Allanblackia fat, tea tobacco, whisky, considerable amounts of beer, spices and rubber. Moreover, the station area was used as refugee camp by German women.

Amani was occupied by English forces in 1916 but the station continued to exist under German leadership until it was closed in 1920 by the British administration. The station was, however re-opened in 1926 under the name "East African Agricultural Research Station" and functioned in Amani until 1950 [under different names], when it became the headquarters of the East African Malaria Research Unit. In addition, the Silvicultural Research Station was founded in Amani in 1951, but this soon moved to Lushoto in West Usambara. Basic research was done in the station on soil science, cash and native crops, ecology, zoology, and botany. For example, based on the field trials started by the Germans, a very tough fiber plant, Agave amaniensis, was found. During the English period, the herbarium grew to 62,000 specimens. In the year 1950 all collections, equipment and staff were shifted to Nairobi.

The New Amani Nature Reserve
The establishment of a nature reserve in Amani was officially proposed in 1988 by the Finnish-supported Amani Forest Inventory and Management Plan Project. In 1992 the EUCFP prepared a frame plan for the establishment and management of the ANR, and in collaboration with the IUCN Law Centre the legal aspects of the establishment of nature reserves were studied. The survey and mapping of the ANR was completed in 1994.

The total area of the reserve is 8,380 ha, which includes 1,065 ha of forests owned by private tea companies under the management of the East Usambara Tea Company. It also includes the Amani Botanical Garden, which is still one of the largest botanical gardens in Africa. The official and legal establishment of the ANR was completed with the publication of the Amani Nature Reserve Declaration Order [Government Notice No. 152] and the accompanying Rules [Government Notice No. 151] in the Government Gazette 78 [19] of 9 May 1997.

The Objective of the Foundation of the ANR is
[as stated in the rules]:

1. To protect the unique, biologically important submontane rain forest ecosystem of the East Usambara Mountains,

2. To maintain biodiversity, genetic resources, natural processes and cultural values in an undisturbed, dynamic and evolutionary state in order to have an ecologically representative example of the Eastern Arc forest ecosystem available for present and future generations, scientific study, environmental monitoring, education, and sustainable and controlled local and recreational use.

The project has since 1994 developed visitor and tourist services partly in collaboration with private companies. This includes renovation of old German Station houses, development forest trails, trail guides, and signboards for visitors, as well as publication of this book.


The above excerpt is from the book: "Trees of Amani Nature Reserve."

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