Foundation of the Research Station
The Biological-Agricultural Institute of Amani [Das
Biologisch-Landwirtschaftliche Institut Amani] was formally erected
on the 4th of July in 1902 in the East Usambara Mountains. The site
of the station was selected on account of its favorable climate and,
moreover, the Government Health Centre wit a small botanical garden
already functioned there; It had started nine years earlier. Later
Amani was honored as the best research station during the German
reign in eastern Africa, and it was equated with the well-known
Buitenzorg [nowadays Bogor] in Java, Dutch East Indies.
Physical Setting and Biological
Diversity
The East Usambara Mountains rise abruptly c. 40 km from the coast of
the Indian Ocean and are clearly seen from the surrounding plains.
The highest peak, Nilo, reaches 1,506 m. The German East-Africa
Society donated over 300 hectares of lush submontane rain forest for
the station and experimental fields. The area lies between 400 -
1,100 m.a.s.l., where the annual rainfall may exceed 2,000 mm. The
average temperature is ca. 20oC and the annual
fluctuation of temperatures is quite insignificant. Near the equator
daily temperatures usually vary more than annual ones.

The Usambaras stand out as an exceptionally diversified ecosystem
in mainland Africa and are ranked as one of the so-called biodiversity
hotspots and centers of plant diversity of the world. Their
biological significance has been compared to the Galapagos
Islands. The mountains are know world-wide for the diversity for
their flora and fauna, and for the remarkably high degree of endemic
plants and animals found in the forests [i.e. species that occur only
here and nowhere else in the world]. For instance, 219 birds and
1,921 indigenous vascular plant species have been reported from the
East Usambaras alone. Among these there are as many as 64 endemic or
near-endemic plant species [near-endemics occur also in a few
adjacent Eastern Arc mountains that have a similar environment and
geological history]. Perhaps the most famous of all the Usambaran
species are the African
Violets [Saintpaulia spp.], one species of which [S.
ionantha] Baron von Saint-Paul-Illaire, then German commissioner
to Tanga, brought to Europe for the first time in the year 1891.
Since then this small, lovely herbaceous plant has continued its
victorious world conquest on windowsills.
Agricultural History: Prehistoric
Settlers and Cash Crop Estates
People have lived in the Usambara mountains for hundreds of years.
The earliest findings of Iron Age settlements have been dated to 3rd
AD. Local dwellers belonging to the tribe Sambaa [which still forms
the majority of the local population] were very skilled cultivators.
For instance, they constructed irrigation systems and fertilized
their fields with cow manure. Banana and maize were the most
important staples, just as they are today.
In 1880 luxuriant, dense forests still covered most part of the
Usambara Mountains, but the Germans first and later others started
logging operations, clearing the forests for plantations. These
activities heavily reduced the original forests. The first
plantations were cleared in 1886. The soil in the area was initially
regarded as very fertile and suitable for coffee. However, coffee
plantations declined soon because of the impoverishment of the
soils, and the rise of plant diseases. To replace coffee, the
Germans then established sisal, hemp, rubber, cinchona, cardamom and
tea plantations. In the last decades, the large tea plantations
together with the favorable climate, have brought about immigration
from other parts of Tanzania. This, in turn, has increased the
pressure on the forests. The population growth in the area is rapid:
ca. 2.6% per year.
German Interests and Scientific
Activities of the Station in Amani
The wealth of the tropical forests stirred up great interest in
Germany at the turn of the century. Merchants in Hamburg and Bremen
imported various plant products to Germany and many expeditions were
sent out for exploration of tropical regions through the financial
aid of large organizations. The German government also declared many
regions in Africa and the Pacific Islands to be under the protection
of the German Empire. Experimental stations were founded in new
colonies for the German economic interests. Colonies cleared land
for large plantations, and they badly needed new cultivation
techniques.
The Botanical Garden of Berlin, and the affiliated Botanical
Research Centre for the German Colonies, received many thousands of
specimens and seed parcels every year, and sent back seeds,
seedlings and reports of garden experiments. Moreover, the Botanical
Research Centre arranged courses on botany and gardening for
officials and gardeners who traveled to the colonies. Many of them
collected considerable numbers of plant specimens for the Botanical
Museum of Berlin. Unfortunately, a great part of these collections
were destroyed in 1943 during the bombing of Berlin, although some
were saved as duplicates that had been distributed to other
scientific institutions in Europe.
In the Amani station, research was concentrated especially on
field trials of the rubber tree [Hevea brasiliensis] and
cotton, both of which were important for the German trade. In
addition, suitable Agave species and varieties were
investigated for huge plantations established by German farmers.
Edible plants, e.g. millet [Sorghum], various melons, sweet
potatoes, bananas and peanuts were bred for native farmers. Also
soil analyses, plant disease and fertilizer studies were performed
at the station. Of the 300 ha plot which was donated to the station,
some 100 ha was under cultivation occurring at different altitudes.
Already in 1907 there were ca. 650 species in cultivation trials.
The experimental station had botanical, zoological, and chemical
laboratories, and the original staff comprised tree botanists, two
chemists, four gardeners, one medical doctor, secretaries,
technicians, and up to 350 Indian and African carpenters and
laborers. The herbarium and zoological collections increased
considerably and the library was excellent, harboring almost 4,000
volumes. Research findings were published in German scientific
journals and professional publications of which "Der Pflanzer"
was for some years printed in Amani. Many distinguished botanists,
such as the Director of the Botanical Garden of Berlin, Dr. A.
Angler, visited the station. Engler published many accounts based on
his travels. In addition, C. Holst, G. Volkens, and A. Peter
collected in the Usambara Mountains, a fact that can today be seen
in the scientific names of many of the plants found in the area,
e.g. Englerodendron usambarense, Myrianthus holstii, Rauvolfia
volkensii, and Cordia peteri. Among these travelers, A.
Peter, professor at the University of Göttingen, was the most
prominent. He collected altogether 47,000 specimens during four
expeditions for his "Flora von Deutsch-Ost-Afrika" which,
however, was never finished.
Provisions for German Troops
During the first months of World War I, Amani played a crucial role
in supplying food and other products for German armed forces in the
German East Africa. During 18 months it delivered various plant
products, e.g. much needed quinine, 10,000 pounds of chocolate and
cocoa, 2,500 packages of tooth paste, 10,000 pieces of soap, cork,
waxes, oils, medicines, Allanblackia fat, tea tobacco,
whisky, considerable amounts of beer, spices and rubber. Moreover,
the station area was used as refugee camp by German women.
Amani was occupied by English forces in 1916 but the station
continued to exist under German leadership until it was closed in
1920 by the British administration. The station was, however
re-opened in 1926 under the name "East African Agricultural
Research Station" and functioned in Amani until 1950 [under
different names], when it became the headquarters of the East
African Malaria Research Unit. In addition, the Silvicultural
Research Station was founded in Amani in 1951, but this soon moved
to Lushoto in West Usambara. Basic research was done in the station
on soil science, cash and native crops, ecology, zoology, and
botany. For example, based on the field trials started by the
Germans, a very tough fiber plant, Agave amaniensis, was
found. During the English period, the herbarium grew to 62,000
specimens. In the year 1950 all collections, equipment and staff
were shifted to Nairobi.
The New Amani Nature Reserve
The establishment of a nature reserve in Amani was officially
proposed in 1988 by the Finnish-supported Amani Forest Inventory and
Management Plan Project. In 1992 the EUCFP prepared a frame plan for
the establishment and management of the ANR, and in collaboration
with the IUCN Law
Centre the legal aspects of the establishment of nature reserves
were studied. The survey and mapping of the ANR was completed in
1994.
The total area of the reserve is 8,380 ha, which includes 1,065
ha of forests owned by private tea companies under the management of
the East Usambara Tea Company. It also includes the Amani Botanical
Garden, which is still one of the largest botanical gardens in
Africa. The official and legal establishment of the ANR was
completed with the publication of the Amani Nature Reserve
Declaration Order [Government Notice No. 152] and the accompanying
Rules [Government Notice No. 151] in the Government Gazette 78 [19]
of 9 May 1997.
The Objective of the Foundation of the
ANR is
[as stated in the rules]:
1. To protect the unique, biologically important
submontane rain forest ecosystem of the East Usambara Mountains,
2. To maintain biodiversity, genetic resources, natural
processes and cultural values in an undisturbed, dynamic and
evolutionary state in order to have an ecologically representative
example of the Eastern Arc forest ecosystem available for present
and future generations, scientific study, environmental monitoring,
education, and sustainable and controlled local and recreational
use.
The project has since 1994 developed visitor and tourist services
partly in collaboration with private companies. This includes
renovation of old German Station houses, development forest trails,
trail guides, and signboards for visitors, as well as publication of
this book.
The above excerpt is from the book: "Trees
of Amani Nature Reserve."
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